With the 2022 Applecross Chardonnay, Dave Bicknell once again shows us why he’s the Chardonnay winemaking master.
Sourced from a high-elevation vineyard in Gladysdale, this Chardonnay is as much about finesse as it is about flavour. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented naturally in older puncheons, this wine skips malolactic fermentation entirely, preserving that taut line of acidity that Bicknell loves.
In the glass, it gleams a bright green-gold, with aromas of citrus, stone fruit, and white flowers, accented by a touch of matchstick. This Chardonnay is pure and energetic, with an intricate structure that holds its complexity without an ounce of flab. Expect layers of lime zest, white peach, and a whisper of oak, all carried by that vibrant, mouth-watering acidity.
Sadly, it’s the last Applecross Chardonnay from this vineyard, so it’s one to savour now or set aside for a few years. An impeccable Yarra Valley Chardonnay, crafted with all the precision and passion that Bicknell is known for.
97 points
"A very bright green gold. More oomph than usual. Lovely complexity with its citrus, stone fruits, white flowers and subtle matchstick. And while this is tightly wound, as it always is from this cool site, it's also a touch more approachable. I liked the '21 a lot, and this one, maybe even a tad more!"
- Philip Rich (Halliday Wine Companion)