Michael Downer’s Tilbury Chardonnay is a great example of what makes the Adelaide Hills such an exciting spot for modern Australian Chardonnay. Most of the fruit comes from Lenswood, with a smaller slice from Piccadilly - two cooler pockets of the Hills that bring brightness and crunch, but also a bit of weight and depth.
Part of Murdoch Hill’s Artisan range, Tilbury is where Downer plays around a little more - wild ferments, whole berries, a fair bit of lees contact, and a mix of French and Austrian oak (about 40% new). It’s not flashy, just quietly detailed and really well judged. You get the purity of the fruit, but there’s also a chalky edge, a bit of grip, and just enough texture to keep it interesting.
The 2023 vintage was cool and wet, but you wouldn’t know it from this. The wine feels composed, layered, and built to age, even though it’s already drinking well now.
95 points
"Crushed rock flintiness and oyster shell brine meet citrus and herbs. Tightly coiled and youthful, with juicy acidity and a compelling finish."
- Ned Goodwin MW (Decanter)
95 points
"Electric and tightly wound with lemon, lime, grapefruit pith, white stone fruit and crushed rock. Saline, coiled and built for the long haul."
- Katrina Butler (Halliday Wine Companion)
95 points
"Grapefruit rind, lime zest and nectarines over vivid acidity and oyster-shell salinity. Tight now but promises softness and generosity with age."
- jamessuckling.com
92 points
"Flinty and firm with pumice, green apple, lime and bitter grapefruit. Chalky, grippy texture with struck match complexity. Take your time."
- Mike Bennie (The Wine Front)