The 2023 Chardonnay from Marco Lubiana shows exactly why Tasmania’s south is such a prime spot for the variety, and why Marco’s wines are quickly gaining a following. Sourced from the biodynamically farmed Stefano Lubiana Granton Estate vineyard, this release reflects the cooler, trickier 2023 season—low yields, bright acidity, and plenty of complexity in the glass.
The fruit was sent straight to barrel for wild fermentation, with full malo and 10 months on lees to build texture and depth, while just a light touch of new oak keeps the delicate fruit front and centre. Bottled unfiltered, it’s a thoughtful, hands-off approach that lets the vineyard do the talking.
This is a Chardonnay with plenty of character—vibrant now, but with the bones to evolve if you’re willing to give it time. Decant it if you’re opening young, or stash it away and watch it develop. Either way, Marco Lubiana’s star is rising fast, and his wines are only going to get harder to find.
96 points
"Reductive and mineral-driven aromas of flint, lemon confit, sea spray and tangerines. The palate is tightly wound with a creamy texture and precise acidity, giving notes of grapefruit pith, graphite, orange blossoms, honeysuckle and beeswax. Truly exceptional with a high level of sophistication. Excellent. Drink or hold."
- James Suckling
95 points
"A mineral-rich Derwent Valley chardonnay with great detail and verve, showing white peach, nectarine, confit lemon and apple fruits with hints of sea breeze, soft spice, crème fraîche, dried tangerine rind, stone and yellow plum. Creamy yet precise, that vivid acidity doing its thing, finishing long and true with flavours of grapefruit pith, stone fruits and spiced oatmeal."
- Dave Brookes (Halliday Wine Companion)